Whistling Dixie: Southern comfort in north suburban Evanston

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Manager Eric Mangriotis serves up big flavor in large portions at the Southern-inspired Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop in Evanston. | LEE A. LITAS FOR SUN-TIMES MEDIA

Updated: January 24, 2012 9:12PM

It is no surprise that expressions like “with all the fixins” did not originate in New York City. But then neither did fried green tomatoes, po’ boys or gumbo. These are delicacies, a mindset and vernacular indigenous to the American South, which owner Paul Andresen painstakingly researched for his Dixie Kitchen & Bait Shop.

Clearly the war between North and South is but a distant memory as the outpouring of Northern support for this authentic Southern eatery has helped buoy it from its humble beginnings in Hyde Park back in 1994 to its current incarnation on the North Shore.

The downtown Evanston location may seem an odd choice for this Southern belle, where one would be hard-pressed to find much that isn’t slathered in cornmeal and deep-fried, but Dixie’s dedication to authenticity in both cuisine and ambiance is the secret to their success.

“The people that live in Chicago are from all over and many (come) from the South. We get a lot of comments on the atmosphere and the decor,” said manager Eric Mangriotis.

A favorite area inside Dixie is the Bait Shop, for which patrons are willing to wait longer to be seated.

“We don’t actually sell any bait or anything,” Mangriotis is quick to point out. The name is in homage to the prototypical bait shops that abounded in the South around the 1930s and sold not only bait “but provided a great place to get a po’ boy sandwich or a bowl of red beans and rice on Washday Mondays.”

And Dixie is more than happy to provide that experience. Take the fried green tomato appetizer — for how else would a quintessential Southern meal start? Green tomatoes are sliced, dipped in spicy batter then deep-fried till crispy and served sprinkled with scallions ($5.95). Kick ’em up with Louisiana hot sauce, Remoulade (a kind of French mayo-based tartar sauce) or the popular dill sauce (reminiscent of Ranch dressing).

The shrimp & grits is a Southern specialty that is not to be missed. Andouille sausage, ham, onions, shrimp and mushrooms are sauteed in a spicy white wine and tarragon sauce, then generously ladled on top of Dixie’s traditional parmesan cheese grits. Served with a zesty jalapeno cornbread muffin, the dish is on special every Friday ($14.95 reg/$12.94 special).

Dixie also serves the traditional Southern gumbo, bringing a healthy portion of the roux-based stew with shrimp, chicken and spicy Andouille sausage to your table ($9.50). Or try even hotter crayfish etouffe that starts with the holy trinity of celery, onions and carrots before being filled to the brim with succulent crawfish ($12.95).

Abita microbrews, from the Turbo Dog dark ale to the berry-flavored Purple Haze, complete the Louisiana theme. Just $3.75 Sunday to Wednesday ($5.50 regular).

“That’s our goal: Keep prices low but not skimp on the flavor or the portions,” said Mangriotis.